DRAWALL: comes to you in 2 parts. Straight edge in a wood crate & a carton with all other parts
Straight edge: unpack following the directions on the crate … a series of screws on one end
Straight edge: avoid bending the straight edge once out of the rigid crate … exercise care!
Straight edge: once installed fragility is not a problem
Upper brackets: install using the X dimension determined by the straight edge ‘eyes’
Base tie: install following the tangent of the straight edge lower pulley
Rope: drape the rope over the upper brackets with the spring in the middle
Straight edge: locate under pulleys approximately 3 foot off floor against wall … improvise!
Straight edge: once in place thread the rope through the pulleys to the base ties
Base tie: tie a loop, hook it to the left tie … then wrap/secure the rope to the right tie.
Base tie: rope must to be ‘taut’ at the end of this procedure
Spring: maintains taut pressure on the rope which maintains the horizontal set
Weight: thread the rope, clip one end to the weight, clip the other to the ‘eye’ of the edge
Weight: when one side is complete the straight edge will ‘tilt’ until the other side is weighted
Rope lock: once edge is horizontal, the rope must be tightened holding the edge in place
Rope lock: unlocking the rope will allow the edge to tilt quite a bit
NOTES:
The bolts on the brackets and ties are intentionally long to accommodate material thicknesses. One would have to introduce blocking on upper brackets to increase depth, base ties work as is.
The Y axis is set up for an 8 foot install … higher involves longer rope. Rope is 3/16” … the rope length is long for a higher ceiling or cut the rope for a lower ceiling.
Upper bracket: has a ‘hard board’ mounting plate with studs attached, it gets screwed to the wall surface. The 3 other ¼” acrylic parts slip over the 3” studs and get tightened together with the threaded X handles. The amount of tension placed on these handles will affect the motion of the straight edge.
The straight edge is designed to ‘stay set’ where ever its positioned. Upward and downward force is required to locate the straight edge.
Installation: Is a DIY (do it yourself) experience. A ladder, screw gun, screws, anchors, tape measure and a level. The dimensions are quite ‘forgiving’, they don’t have to be exact, just close.
My comments are for installing alone … a second person makes it that much easier.
MY PERSONAL EXPERIENCE … some thoughts
SURFACES and materials Note: vertical surface means no mess & clean backgrounds
Wall surface: Drywall … if you’re drawing on paper the drywall should be prepped well
Wood pencils: I draw with good quality HB wood pencils. An electric pencil sharpener and electric eraser are also essential. I use a lot of pencils. I devised what I call a ‘pencil extender’, a thin 12” PVC tube that will accept the pencil, which allows the pencils to be completely used down to the stub.
Paper: I’ve drawn on various paper surfaces, rolls are available up to 60”. I’ve also had roll paper professionally mounted to ‘gator board’. This is a surface I like the best. The result is a rigid paper drawing one can preserve with a ‘fixatif’ and are easily handled and displayed.
Board: Good quality illustration board like Stathmore is fine too though limited to 30”x40”.
I’ve also used ‘clay board’ which can be special ordered to specific sizes. Art suppliers usually have it in limited sizes. I’ve also drawn on ¼” plywood and whitened masonite.
I’ve learned ‘matte board’, which is archival, can be order from frame shops in large sizes.
Canvas: I’ve experimented with a small piece drawing with pastel … mess falls away
